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Sunday, 12 May 2013
Tuesday, 12 March 2013
¡El Chorro ~ Spain ~ late nights, laughter and psyche!
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| CAC! |
A year has passed since the last team trip in Costa Blanca; this time, Team Crush headed further down south to El Chorro. I, along with my family travelled the 1500 miles by train, planning to meet the final 12 at Málaga airport. However, I seem to be ill-fated with trains since my epic return journey from
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| Team Tilley |
We had 6 days of possible climbing in El Chorro however due
to the weather not being the usual Spanish heat wave; we only managed to get 5
in and only 4 days without seepage. However luckily there was only one completely
climbing free day; just watching films. For those of us who didn’t want to stay
inside all day, there was a trip to the local Picasso museum (Malaga
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| Cosas Caseras 7a+ |
On our first day, we went to Frontales- Poema de Roca
a massive cave. Although I was psyched to get some good sends, I didn’t try
anything massively challenging because it always takes me a day to adjust to
the rock, forget any fear of falling and to trust the ‘stickiness’ of it,
however I found I didn’t need to worry; my Shamans stuck perfectly to the beautifully
formed limestone.
On Monday, the second day into the trip we went to
Desplomilandia- Buena Sombre, on the
way passing through some beautiful lakes and views. Sarah and I took this day
as more of a volume day, hoping to get some crushing done the next day, doing
all the 6 top 50’s. Yogur de coco - 6c, and
Cosas Caseras -7a+, two of the top 50’s, would have to be some of my most
favourite climbs out of the whole trip, they had steady and in interesting
climbing to both the crux’s with amazing no hands rests and incredibly
enjoyable climbing! A quick note to point out however, unlike the guide book
suggests, all the top 50 climbs on this bit of the crag, were not dry after
rain, they were all, in fact, dripping wet, as we found out on the last day.
Rain. Rain. Yet more rain. Let’s visit the Picasso Museum.
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| The Walk to Makinodromo |
The next morning the rain had stopped and we were psyched to
get back on the rock. We were off to Makinodromo. However due to the torrential
rain the day before, it was dripping and so as events unfolded we found our
selves walking the Kings walk. To read more about the ‘walk’ visit: http://climbersblogs.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/el-chorro-el-camino-del-ray-flo-tilley.html
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| Eye of the storm- 7c |
On the Thursday we ended up back in Poema de Roca. The rain
battered us back into the cave, away from the more exposed sectors which were
where we originally set out to go. With Amanda eagerly pushing me on, I flashed
a 7b - La villa strangiato, steep,
short and juggy and worked 7c - Eye of
the storm, a climb going straight through the roof of the cave. This was
also full of massive jugs, and awesome toe hooks, a climb I would defiantly
recommend!! I worked this to the top. I know if I were to climb this again when
I was fresh I would top it.
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| Eye of the storm- 7c |
The Final day of climbing arrived and due to the weather being
forecast as showery throughout the day we had to return to Desplomilandia- Buena sombre. The Morning was not
looking bright and the rain was hammering down. The climbs I wanted to try were
wet and the 7a I eventually got on was damp; the jugs were un-holdable. However
after a dodgy fall with Sarah and lots of chocolate consumed to brighten our
spirits I did Fran sin natra - 7b
second go.
The Week had finally come to an end and the train journey
home loomed back over us. However unlike the journey there, the way back was
much smoother and had no glitches. There’s no denying that I was pleased to get
back home!
You might ask, why bother? Why go through the hassle of
travelling by train, when it only takes a few short hours to go by plane? Yes,
to be fair it takes about 8 times as long but you get to meet new people,
practice your Spanish, get an extra day out of your holiday, gain useful
experience and miss an extra day off school, what more could you want?! Oh, and
it saves carbon emissions!
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| The 'Kids' |
A massive thank you to Mark Pashley for organising the whole
trip, Wayne, Richard and Mark, for driving us all around El Chorro, everyone
who cooked, Evolve and Metolious for my gear and for everyone for making the
trip as amazing as it was!
Friday, 14 December 2012
The Youth Open 2012
The time had come to make a point about how hard I’ve been
training over the last few months. The Youth Open had arrived, along with a
tough competition and weekend. I felt prepared and psyched and luckily recovering
fast from the winter cold.
Day one: Leading.
I was up third up and after a rushed warm up I stepped onto
qualifier one; a technical climb with a small overhang at the top, a style
perfectly suited to me. I felt calm, composed and psyched. Luke Tilley had
demoed our climb effortlessly and being my brother went through the route with
me afterwards, telling me to just ‘accept the bad holds’, great, thanks, really
useful ;). Working my way up I kept breathing deep and climbing smoothly, staying
relaxed. Totally absorbed in the climb I suddenly found myself a few moves from
the top. ‘Just keep calm, carry on’. One more move to the top. One more pull. No
more oomph . I fell, my fingers millimetres from the last hold. I reached the
bottom happy with my performance but I was most pleased with my head. I had
proved I could control it, keep its anxiety on a leash.
My second qualifier was up the main wall which was a barrel:
an S shape. The climb started off more or less vertical, getting steeper and
steeper then near the top reducing back to a vertical. This time, I was 10th
up, I was ready to go and once again psyched. It looked good, steep with
good(ish) holds and a massive side wall big enough to bridge all you liked on.
I started well, climbing strong and fluent and calm. I was getting into the
steeper section of the barrel; I was in full flow but my mind and consequently
my sequence missed the clip; I got the next hold, remembered the clip, tried to
clip, failed to clip! I got the next hold, try to clip again, but would have
fallen off. OK, well let’s try the next hold then, oh no, my arms aren’t that
long. New plan, let’s climb down, energy is draining, still can’t clip, lets
climb back up again, the clip is still failing me. The clip had won. I had
fallen.
I knew it was over. I had made the mistake. I had messed up
this important competition. My remaining energy was used up crying, tears
pouring down my cheeks. I was angry at the error I made. Irritated because the
climb looked so good. Frustrated because I hadn’t found the climbing hard.
Cross because I knew I would have topped it. Distraught because I knew the
competition was so tight I would loose my place on the GB Team.
Luke, as always, came to the rescue. He sat with me calming
me back down, trying to staunch the flow of water falling down my cheeks. He
explained the problem and told me solutions and amazingly got me psyched once
again. However, being a girl and being, it seems, very emotional; every time
the subject was raised a new set of tears would find their way back into my eyes,
revealing my distress again.
Because of my determination I couldn’t let this climb slip
by, so after the award ceremony, I whipped my harness back on, re-warmed up and
stormed up the route. I clipped ‘the clip’ with ease and climbed past with no
problem. The cruxy move at the top where I witnessed many climbers come off
didn’t stand in my way. I was on a rampage. I was at the last move before long:
a big powerful move from a tiny crimp to a massive jug. The pressure to finish
the climb wasn’t there: I had proved myself right about th climb being well
within my ability and the tears had drained most of my energy. I fell, ‘my
fingers millimetres from the last hold.’
Day 2, bouldering. After debating long and hard on Saturday
evening I had decided to compete in the first Open Youth bouldering
competition. We had 8 boulder problems
to complete in two hours with 5 attempts at each. Then 3 problems with 4 minutes
to complete each individual climb for the finals. The climbs looked hard but
good. I had put no pressure on myself as I wasn’t too psyched to actually try
to get a place on the bouldering team, as, if you know me, I really am not a
boulderer. The standard is high, I took
this purely for fun. It turns out I didn’t do too badly considering, finishing
7th, against Tara Hayes, Molly Thompson-Smith, Gracie Martin, Rachel
Carr and Tash Allcock. And Tash only beating me by getting to a bonus hold 3 attempts
quicker. This left me just outside a qualifying place. An awesome well done to
Gracie as well for getting a place on the bouldering team after a sick effort
in the final, finishing 4th due to count back!!
So that was my weekend. Not really the outcome I was hoping
for. I made a costly mistake on a climb and consequently lost my position on
the team. Not great, but that wont stop me training, getting psyched and proving
myself in July at the next Youth Open. Oh, and don’t worry, I’ll practise
remembering to clip too!
Saturday, 13 October 2012
The BLCC 2012
The
BLCC had come back around, once again being held in the depths of the Ratho
wall. Equipped with layers of clothes, including my new PrAna trousers and an
opportunity to get selected for the last European youth cup of the year in
Kranj I was psyched to get my boots on!
I
was up about 10th on my first qualifier, I was feeling good, I had
warmed up well, and even my hands were immune from the biting cold of Ratho.
This is a problem that many competitors have - losing sensation in their
fingers. The climb worked its self round the corner of the old comp wall,
looking a bit sketchy at times, technical at others and powerful at the very
end.
On
the long journey to Scotland
You’re
probably wondering why I’m telling you this. What has it to do with climbing? In
fact, I feel it played a big part of understanding my head and learning to
control my nerves. I could relate back to that feeling while climbing to
control my unease.
I
got on to the climb feeling confident and set off with a good start, clipping
well and going smoothly. After unbalancing a little I readjusted my position,
greatly helped by my sick new shoes doing their job. I surprised myself as I
found I was a hold away from the top. The last move was big and felt even
bigger as my arms were slowly got more pumped. I finally went for the move,
after spending a little too much time ‘preparing’ myself for it. The hold felt
my palm willing me to grab hold of it, but all too soon the chains were flying
away from me.
Meanwhile,
as I was undergoing my qualifier, the first ever category of the female veterans
had started their climb. With their entry fees donating to epilepsy action and
a cake sale running throughout the day as well, they had a great atmosphere. I
believe the vets will write up their experience.
With
qualifier 1 down, I was feeling confident. This climb was still on the old comp
wall but on the more slabby section. The Youth A boys had been up before us so
I had a good idea of the route. It too looked technical and sketchy. I was 4th
up this time; I felt, a good position to be in. As I had finally sussed out my nerves
on the last climb I was sure that this would no longer be a problem, it
wouldn’t affect my performance. I was, with great relief, right. I now feel
much more confident, un-sketchy and have found a new enjoyment to competition
climbing. My head was focused on the climb, on every move, on my feet, on my
hands. I worked up most the climb with ease, finding a good shake out just
before the final powerful steep section; going over the lip. I pulled on and
set off for my final battle. With some awkward heel hooks I managed to pull my
self over the lip onto a volume. I knew I had little power left, so with one
last effort I locked off to get the 4th last remaining hold. I
tickled it, teasing myself, I thought had got it but the tickle wasn’t enough
and I came rapidly down.
From
my performance in my qualifiers I got in the final in 4th place.
Unusually our Youth B category had 7 in the final, instead of the normal 6 due
to a draw in 6th place. After half an hour in isolation we were sent
out for our 8 minutes viewing time. Our final was also on the old comp wall, however
this time looking much more powerful, with, what it looked like, cruxy sections
on the over hanging parts. Back in isolation, I started to slowly warm up,
psyched to get on the route. I was finally called to go. With all my gear in
hand I set off for my final.
I
got on the rout feeling slightly more nervous than I did in my qualifiers,
however I still climbed alright. I reached the end of the first over hang,
jumping to a hold and only just holding it, my arms were at full stretch and I
was unable to get a good enough grip to pull up and get my leg across to a
vital hold to be able to do another long and powerful move. As I came down I
knew this wasn’t the result what I was hoping for and was even more
disheartened when I found out that I came 6th over all.
However
although the out come was not what I wished for I had sorted my nervous,
performance knocking head out and replaced it with a controlled, confident and
even more psyched head, ready for competitions!
I
would like to say a massive thank you to my new sponsors, Evolve, PrAna and
Metolious for their gear and for inspiring me to climb that little bit harder!
Monday, 27 August 2012
Crushing the Crag
So a year has passed since Team Crush’s last Kilnsey trip and Naomi, once again had taken the challenge of organising the rabble. After inviting themselves to stay at our Grandparent’s ‘Bothy’ – an out house my Granddad redid into a bunk room. Another year to send some hard routes!
Day one and Tash and I were out
at the crag before the others had even arrived. We had warmed up on the Bulge-let;
6b+, finding that we needed a little more time to get used to the limestone. An hour later, after working out
the rock on the few easier climbs, the rest of Team Crush appeared. They were
just in time to witness my feeble attempts on Pantomime; 7b+; a powerful, steep
and bouldery route, and if you know me, that’s not my style. Feeling now that
the limestone was slowly beating me, I moved to Directissima; 6c and a top
roped trad; 7a neighbouring.
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| Gracie on Pantomine |
Day 2 we were off straight to the
crag, a whole 2 minute walk away. The day started off much better than
yesterday, this time, flashing a 6b+!!! After our warm up, Tara ,
Tash and I, got on Ground Effect; 7b. After pulling past a bouldery hard start
I worked it to the top, the crux, being half way up needing a deep Egyptian and
determination. This climb would go!
Feeling more Psyched, Tara and I decided to get on the classic Sticky Wicket;
7b, a vertical technical climb. Tara went first, she
worked it to the top, found it good but she had felt that her fear of falling
outside had prevented her from going for moves and for the flash. I got on,
working it too and finding the same problem of falling, definitely a part of my
mind I need to fix! Later we made our way over to Gracie and Tash, we found
them giving Smooth Torquer; 7a+/b a go, another, short and powerful climb, with
another tricky start but jugs straight after. Gracie told us that she had got
it in two, falling off not at the cruxy start but a dynamic move just after. I
had to give it a go! I watched Tash repeatedly try the bouldery start swinging
off after dynoing for a hold. Before I got on, Ian Dunn
came over and gave me the beta for the less powerful people. My attempts were
similar to Tash’s, catching the hold then swinging off, I was tiring and my
finger skin was fast departing but I had to do this move, I finally got it,
sticking my feet, but then in my exhaustion forgot the next hold and came off.
Now I had that move, I knew I could do it, tomorrow would get some sending! Gracie,
psyched to get a send, got back on and beasted it!
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| Tom |
The sun was shining and because
we are Team Crush and we are crazy, we all decided to go swimming in the river;
well most of us, Tash and Gracie whimped out and watched at the edge. It was
FREEZING! I would have been out first if it were not for the motive of; it will
make me climb well tomorrow…
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| Gracie and Sara having a break from climbing... |
After earning our let at my
grandparents; doing the gardening and in mine and Tara ’s
case, scraping weeds out a drive way we were back on the crag. Today would be
the day I get a route ticked. I warmed up on a 6b+ then got straight on Smooth
Torquer, I was not planning on getting burned out for it this time! I watched Tara
get the flash but it still took me a couple of goes to get the first moves
again and I was starting to get worried that I would get too tired. So I rested
for an hour or so while I watch Billy try an 8a and Tom Red Point it! I finally
got back on Smooth Torquer and got the red point, my best outside route yet at
Kilnsey! While Billy was resting I got a belay up WYSWYG; 7b, the first part of
the 8a. I worked up it, I found many of the moves big but knew, maybe not to
day but another, it would go.
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| On the way back from our adventures in the river. |
Second to last day and it was not
good. I woke up feeling awful, getting out of bed I knew I wasn’t right and
after throwing up, blacking out and spending the morning sleeping on my Gran’s
sofa, I knew I wouldn’t be climbing that day. I managed to get up to the crag
however and sit with my sister, Naomi, (she also wasn’t climbing due to a
shoulder injury) and watched the others get on hard routes.
The last
day had arrived, still tired and kind of better, I made my way up to the crag
with Team Crush. I knew I wouldn’t get on anything hard, so I tried the 7a top
rope I tried the first day. Managing to get a couple of moves then coming off
feeling exhausted and unable to pull, I decided it was a day and joined Naomi
again. About 30 min before I had to leave to get the train, I had worked up
some energy to get back on Ground Effect, I pulled past the moves I had
struggled with but then fell off, forgetting the next beta. Being so late on
the climb I couldn’t work it again and Gran was calling and the rest were
packing up. The week was over, time to go home.
This year I didn’t get many
ticks, (the illness didn’t help!) but I have a plan for next time, so no
dawdling at the beginning, straight to the lines!
Finally good luck to Tara who is
currently in Singapore
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| The Crag its Self |
Thursday, 16 August 2012
As Strong as a Mountain and as dynamic as a Flower
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| The Comp wall |
We had another display of the British Team’s strength. Again we got 3 finalist: Luke Tilley, Alex Waterhouse and William Bosi and some pretty awesome climbing from those not reaching the final!
Qualifier 1 looked reachy, pumpy and fun. Unfortunately, I was 35th on, although giving me plenty of viewing time, it also gave me time to get shaky and nervous. I had watched both Gracie and Molly reach the first crux; a long and powerful move which spat both of them off. But I was determined to stick the hold and climb on.
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| Qualifier 1 |
As I got to my chair to start tying on, the sun was beating down, not helping my ever rising nerves. It was my turn to face the climb. I was too nervous to climb at my full potential but I tried to push this thought away, just focusing on the next move, trying to get my feet right and to make my clipping good.
However my nerves got the better of me. I come off because of a misjudged foot sequence. I came down, frustrated, knowing this was not the best performance I could have done.
After having lunch back in our apartment and a good long 5 hour rest we made our way back to the wall. Here we discovered that my 2nd qualifier was the Junior Female’s qualifier 1.
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| Qualifier 2 |
I knew I couldn’t let the previous climb faze this one: this would be a new start. Being 15th on, it also meant I had enough climbers to get me psyched and ready to climb but not too many to get me quite as nervous.
I felt more calm and composed as I stepped on the climb this time. I kept breathing deeply and concentrating. I felt like the climbing was going OK. I wasn’t climbing too smoothly but I had remembered to rest and so far hadn’t gone wrong. Finally I reached a big throwy move out left, a move I could have done if I was fresh and had my foot in the correct place. Unfortunately this wasn’t the case. So, after just scraping the hold I fell. I fell in quite an unnerving way; smashing into the wall. This made all the spectators and competitors look my way and draw in a breath. At least I got my moment of fame…
As I was lowered, by a slightly shaken belayer, I felt happier. However I still knew that my two climbs had not witnessed my full ability!
Knowing that you haven’t climbed your best in such a big competition when you’ve put in so much effort training is hard to get over. Luke however, made this so much easier.
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| Qualifier 2 |
Luke explained that it isn’t my actual physical ability letting me down: it’s not being able to control my head. He explained that he meditates, meaning when he is climbing he can keep his head and body calm. He said when he is climbing he repeats, ‘I’m as strong as a mountain and as dynamic as a flower’.
Meditation obviously works wonders as he climbed awesome in the qualifiers. He made the final in 9th and then beasted it. He ended up finishing 7th!
Talking to Luke helped me understand that I still have lots to learn, and even if I don’t do my best in a competition, it’s still worth it just for the experience. He also reminded me that I still have plenty of time to improve!
Over all I finished 37th, not such a great result, but as I said, I’m just leaving room for improvement! And I had a pretty awesome weekend!!
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| (some of) Team GB |
Wednesday, 1 August 2012
The Open Youth Competition
Last
weekend Edinburgh International Climbing Arena held another Youth Open competition
which showed off ever stronger youth climbers. With some pretty awesome looking
routes and Naomi Tilley (my sister) commentating while recovering from a
shoulder injury the climbing seemed set to go!
My
first qualifier was on the comp wall; the climb looked juggy, steep, pumpy and
fun! Being 3rd up I didn’t have many people to watch, so, as tied on
I watched the first 2 climbers intently. The first climber took it steady and
got most the way up getting a couple of moves into the roof before coming off.
However, the 2nd climber didn’t reach this far which switched on my
nerves, knowing that maybe there were crux moves half the way up. I knew that
this couldn’t phase my performance so when my time came to step up and face the
climb I kept myself calm, kept breathing deeply, and focused on each move. I
stayed positive. The climb was as good as it looked! Most of the holds were
positive, with a massive jug before the pull into the roof, perfect to rest on.
I knew I had to climb fast through the roof as my energy was fast diminishing.
It was going well until I hit a very reachy clip. This drained more of my
energy but I carried on. I managed to squeeze in a couple more moves until just
before pulling round to the finishing clip. I used my last remaining power for
a huge throw which saw me just scraping the hold and the end of my attempt.
My
second qualifier took me to the old comp wall; it was a slabby climb, with no
good olds, and no good rests. Less steep and powerful climbs should suit me better;
however the long reaches seemed to rock the boat a little too vigorously. After
struggling on a dynamic move I began to get pumped and careless and about half
way up. I reached out for a clip and missed; I lost most concentration, slipped
and fell. I came down knowing this wasn’t the best I could have done but I put
this behind me and hoped it would be enough to get me into the final!
I
came down feeling like I climbed my best but because was first out I didn’t
know how I’d fare compared to the others. As it turned out I hadn’t done too
bad, in fact I’d done quite well! I come 3rd to Tara and Molly with
close competition from Gracie, (finishing 4th) only wining 3rd
by climbing a whole 5 seconds faster!
Over all a successful weekend and with even more psyche for my third European (EYC) inImst , Austria
 |
| Qualifier 1 |
 |
| Final |
I
was in luck! I had scraped into the final. Qualifying 6 with only 6 going into
the final was a bit close for comfort, but now I had to fully concentrate on
the final climb. Running out to route read I found the climb on the far right
of the comp wall. They were positive but not huge holds, most of the way up,
following the line of the arête. My psyche had risen! Being 6th into
the final meant being 1st out of my category, playing to an
advantage for me, as I still have the climb fresh in my head, and a whole set
of clean holds!
As I got on the climb I told my self
to be calm and enjoy it. I still felt slightly nervous but I focused the nerves
into my climbing, hopefully pushing me up higher. I felt I climbed well and
steady, I came off slapping for a hold round a volume with my arms completely
boxed!
 |
| On the Podium! |
Over all a successful weekend and with even more psyche for my third European (EYC) in
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