Sunday 1 September 2013

A week in the Peaks

Green Traverse, Font 7a
A few weeks ago, when it seemed the summer holidays still stretched before me, 10 of us clambered into Jonny White's and Tom Bonnet's cars and set off for a week in the peaks!

Rubicon- 7a, just couldn't resit a bit of sport!
- would definitely recommend this rout!!
A few days in, we ended up in Stanage, however we soon realised, conditions weren't ideal - hot and humid, but we still stuck at it. Tash, Sarah and I ended up spending most of the day working Green traverse, 7a, a climb Sarah has been batterling with for some time. Sarah finally got it as the afternoon wore on. I ticked it too! Apparently unusually; I had to get a high heal hook using my flexibility at full stretch and a full left arm lock off.

Throughout the week I also manged to tick a few more 7a’s. I also got my first font 7b; Weed Killer at Raven Tor!

It was an amazing week, with some great people- a big thank you to Orrin for turning 18 :) !!




Sunday 23 June 2013

YCS Final 2013



The YCS supporting CAC!

 Last year I thought I was done with the YCS’, but my loss of a place on the GB team, meant I was once again able to compete! Having only 3 of us in the Peak area in the Youth A group; Naomi Tilley, Beth Garratt and me, we were all guaranteed a place in the final, which was handy as Naomi and I missed the first round due to a climbing trip to El Chorro, Spain, to read more about my trip there, visit; http://flotilley.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/el-chorro-spain-late-nights-laughter_12.html .
 
For those that don’t know, the YCS consists of 3 boulders and 3 leads, or top ropes if you are category C or below. It has the international age categories with an extra youth E and D! 
 
Our first boulder was by far, in my eyes, the hardest, completely de-psyching me- failing on a move I knew I could do. However as the day progresses things started to brighten up, flashing the second boulder and being only one of two to top our third one. The leads, also being my strong point brought me back from a weaker position to a stronger more comfortable one, topping the first two and slapping for the last hold on our hardest rout.
 
In the end I came third, it would have course, have been nice to win but third suited me just fine! It’s not however just about the position, at the end of the day it’s about how you, yourself performed. And today I actually felt I climbed with nothing holding me back; like my nerves. On the routes I finally made my anxiety unwind, allowing me to climb fluently and smoothly and the trick I found was simply, to be happy!
 
This year was also extra special as an extra Tilley had joined the crew!! Harry, my younger cousin, who has only been climbing for about 6 months and is only 8, reached the final, a top notch achievement (look out for the next generation of Tilley crushers). It seems that the desire to send routes and pull hard is in our blood, running in our very veins!
 
The next comp I’m will competing is the Senior BBC’s at Sheffield in a fortnight. How well I do is a complete mystery, especially as I would of have week in Barcelona with school before hand!  

Tuesday 12 March 2013

¡El Chorro ~ Spain ~ late nights, laughter and psyche!



CAC!

A year has passed since the last team trip in Costa Blanca; this time, Team Crush headed further down south to El Chorro. I, along with my family travelled the 1500 miles by train, planning to meet the final 12 at Málaga airport. However, I seem to be ill-fated with trains since my epic return journey from Russia [to read more about my time here: ‘An Epic Journey! ]. Our Eurostar was delayed, not a good start as this was the train leading us to our ‘Hotel Train’, which we hoped would take us all the way from Paris to Madrid. Due to the slight problem of a fire up ahead, we were sitting on the tracks waiting for an hour, the same hour we had to get from Paris Nord to Paris Austerlitz. So yet again we found our selves (this time with the whole family) running through the Metro, hoping against hope the next train would be delayed by just 5 minutes. It wasn’t. Nevertheless the parents claimed new tickets which meant we had a small (quite big actually) detour to Barcelona. It also meant we could sneak in some family time and eat out in Paris, which was just soo unbearable… ;)  Finally we arrived in Málaga, tired but psyched for the week ahead. Getting to the villa in Alora only 5 hours after our original expected time of arrival!
Team Tilley

 

We had 6 days of possible climbing in El Chorro however due to the weather not being the usual Spanish heat wave; we only managed to get 5 in and only 4 days without seepage. However luckily there was only one completely climbing free day; just watching films. For those of us who didn’t want to stay inside all day, there was a trip to the local Picasso museum (Malaga).
Cosas Caseras 7a+

 

On our first day, we went to Frontales- Poema de Roca a massive cave. Although I was psyched to get some good sends, I didn’t try anything massively challenging because it always takes me a day to adjust to the rock, forget any fear of falling and to trust the ‘stickiness’ of it, however I found I didn’t need to worry; my Shamans stuck perfectly to the beautifully formed limestone.  

 

On Monday, the second day into the trip we went to Desplomilandia- Buena Sombre, on the way passing through some beautiful lakes and views. Sarah and I took this day as more of a volume day, hoping to get some crushing done the next day, doing all the 6 top 50’s.  Yogur de coco - 6c, and Cosas Caseras -7a+, two of the top 50’s, would have to be some of my most favourite climbs out of the whole trip, they had steady and in interesting climbing to both the crux’s with amazing no hands rests and incredibly enjoyable climbing! A quick note to point out however, unlike the guide book suggests, all the top 50 climbs on this bit of the crag, were not dry after rain, they were all, in fact, dripping wet, as we found out on the last day.

Rain. Rain. Yet more rain. Let’s visit the Picasso Museum.

                                                                                
The Walk to Makinodromo
The next morning the rain had stopped and we were psyched to get back on the rock. We were off to Makinodromo. However due to the torrential rain the day before, it was dripping and so as events unfolded we found our selves walking the Kings walk. To read more about the ‘walk’ visit: http://climbersblogs.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/el-chorro-el-camino-del-ray-flo-tilley.html

Eye of the storm- 7c
On the Thursday we ended up back in Poema de Roca. The rain battered us back into the cave, away from the more exposed sectors which were where we originally set out to go. With Amanda eagerly pushing me on, I flashed a 7b - La villa strangiato, steep, short and juggy and worked 7c - Eye of the storm, a climb going straight through the roof of the cave. This was also full of massive jugs, and awesome toe hooks, a climb I would defiantly recommend!! I worked this to the top. I know if I were to climb this again when I was fresh I would top it.

 
Eye of the storm- 7c

The Final day of climbing arrived and due to the weather being forecast as showery throughout the day we had to return to Desplomilandia- Buena sombre. The Morning was not looking bright and the rain was hammering down. The climbs I wanted to try were wet and the 7a I eventually got on was damp; the jugs were un-holdable. However after a dodgy fall with Sarah and lots of chocolate consumed to brighten our spirits I did Fran sin natra - 7b second go.

The Week had finally come to an end and the train journey home loomed back over us. However unlike the journey there, the way back was much smoother and had no glitches. There’s no denying that I was pleased to get back home!


You might ask, why bother? Why go through the hassle of travelling by train, when it only takes a few short hours to go by plane? Yes, to be fair it takes about 8 times as long but you get to meet new people, practice your Spanish, get an extra day out of your holiday, gain useful experience and miss an extra day off school, what more could you want?! Oh, and it saves carbon emissions!

 
The 'Kids'

A massive thank you to Mark Pashley for organising the whole trip, Wayne, Richard and Mark, for driving us all around El Chorro, everyone who cooked, Evolve and Metolious for my gear and for everyone for making the trip as amazing as it was!